Art & Leisure – Gokarna

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 The soul has been given its own ears
to hear things mind does not understand … Rumi

Rumi stated it beautifully and what more when you come down to a small western coast township of Gokarna holds a spiritual and blissful feel.

It was almost evening when we were struggling to find our place to stay at “Kudle Beach”. We happen to park our car on the top of the beach along with many other cars that were parked. May be that was the reason why we had the confidence to park our car too. And then carried our steps down the steps to the place of stay on the beach.

It was dark by the time we reached our place. Well realized that online can be quite deceptive too and we changed our place. A little more expensive but we were fine with that.

Having settled down we could sit on the beach as the stars came out. We had a quite dinner and crashed out. We had a long drive from Kulgi that day.

The next morning, it was a beautiful welcome with the calm waves of the Arabian sea welcomed us to play with it. Had a lazy breakfast at one of the shacks on the beach.

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As we lazed out, one of the hawkers selling all sorts of necklace and key rings. My partner got down and went down to the business of negotiating the price. It was an interesting fun talking to locals. We finally managed to pick a few skull rings.

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No one had any objection with us siting at their shops. By afternoon we headed off to one of the shacks which was artistically painted. We were served by an Indian whose mother happened to be a foreigner.

This place came into life as sun was thinking about setting down… There were people who came down to set up their flea market. Almost all of them were foreigners who were selling one or the other life styles. Some had bangles to some beagles and cakes. There was a buzz of activities that went on happening. People had planted their flags to mark their territory. Some of the things were quite antique too and some relatively new. But, price was the same. Interesting things to see.

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IMG_20181227_183201While the flea market was on, there were a bunch of people who went on showing their skills. Either it was yoga or balancing the stick or playing Frisbee or any other act of their will. They did not hesitate to let us also experiment along with them.

There was an energy that was free will. It is my life and my world. I create what I love painting around. There was no hesitation to share too if you would like to step into it…

Well as if that was not all, someone said, why can we not play a game of beach badminton without any net and rules. The only rule was to return the ball at the same intensity.

We had a splendid time soaking ourselves in the intensity of laughter, fun and high energy of the people on Kudle beach. It was an evening beautifully spent, and not without taking some shots and enjoying the sun set.

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It was one of the best relaxation times when we just lazed around, soaked ourselves into the beauty of what nature and a free will can do. Well that was not all, we also hogged on some “Saksukas” and Pizzas. It is a great place to see food fusion at its best gulped down with Beer or simple water. You have plenty to choose from.

As we wrapped up our blissful stay at Gokarna’s Kudle beach with a lovely early morning bliss, and dip in the Arabian sea, we were simply enthralled.

As though this was not enough, the simple town of Gokarna was equally mesmerizing. The paths are quite narrow and we had to navigate carefully. At some places we closed the mirror panels of the car. Finally managed to park our car and headed for a good and simple breakfast before heading towards the Shiva Temple.

And when we reached the The tranquility and the serenity of the temple will take you to a different level. Picked up some flowers that we offered it to the lord. We also had the chance to touch the broken Shiva Linga which is being prayed there.IMG_20181228_093921

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As we walked out of the temple and till furlong along the outer walls of the temple we reached the Mahaganapathy Temple where the lord is facing the sea and there is a mythology attached to it too. DSC_8834

We then took the narrow lanes to reach the lake where Ravana is supposed to have take a dip.

After all the walking around, we headed back. One could hear the chants which were going feverishly. We just stopped and sat down on one of the varandas. As we did that, one of the elderly ladies walked out and asked, if we needed some water or anything.  That was a beautiful human touch to be with. The city still holds the humanness.

As we walked around, art became a common sight. Graffiti was a common site and they are quite artistic. Loved the air of Gokarna.

As we left such a mesmerizing place, both from religious and from a vacation point of view. This city is not much in news but is absolutely a place that one cannot miss. A must from Karnataka.

The Fish vendors lead by Women

Things to check:

  • Gokarna, is well connected on the main high way.
  • Kudle & OM beach are off the city limits (15 – 20 Kms) and GPS could be tricky.
  • Remember that you have to park your vehicles (If you are on your own)
  • You will have to walk down some 60 odd steps to reach the base of the beach.
  • Do check on your place of stay as the beach has support for any kind of budget and stay.
  • It is quite a tranquil place both the beach and the city. 
  • You can carry your camera bag / camera / cell phone.
  • Explore different kinds of food, you will never regret.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat” & say no to plastics. The place is relatively clean and has been maintained by local people.    

Indeed…. Incredible India!!

Check out my New releases @ Amazon and enjoy the short stories.

Pineapples at Madhukeshwara .. Sweetener of Karnataka

IMG_20181229_115347Banavasi, the names connects to being the oldest and the first capital of Karnataka is today a quite sleepy town with its beautiful Pineapple farms and the majestic Madhukeshwara temple.

Looking at the temple one can certainly say that this place would have been a high activity place. The Kadamba dynasty was the first dynasty to rule over the North Karnataka in the 3rd century AD. It is no doubt the oldest places noted in the annals of history of  Karnataka. Banavasi, has its reference in the records of Ptolemy (Dates to 1st century), Kalidasa also had visited this lovely place and there are references of Banavasi in his Meghaduta and also had been visited by monks during Ashoka times.

The Madhukeshwara temple holds its relevance from mythology where Lord Vishnu had killed a demon called Madhu on the behest of Lord Shiva. Initially this temple was built in reverence to Lord Vishnu, interestingly today we see a great Shivalinga, who is called as Madhukeshvaralinga. IMG_20181229_122155

The temple and place was later under the control of the Chalukya and then the Hoyasala dynasties. Both the dynasty have an impact on the temple and its architecture.

As one enters the temple, one is welcome by the openness of the place. The Gopuram of the temple is flat and short, typical of the temple structures in the Western Ghats.

The inner pillars seems to be a combination of structures from different dynasties. The pillars does showcase the fact that India even in 1st Century was so well advanced that it could carve out pillars that stand tall even after 2000 plus years. A marvel and feat to feel proud about this culture. The carvings on the pillars came in much later with the Hoyasala.

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As we enter the inner temple, one sees a huge Nandi (Bull, Lord Shiva’s vehicle) should be at least 6 ft in height.

IMG_20181229_120836The uniqueness of this Nandi is that, the head of the Nandi is at an angle where, one eye is focused on Lord Shiva while the other is intently looking at Goddess Parvathi, whose temple is smaller and adjacent to Lord Shiva’s main temple.

The sanctum has the Shiva Linga which is huge and has a flat top which depicts of the time a little later than the Kadamba time.

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Lord Indra on his Airavata

The outer walls temple has got the idols of both Shiva and Vishnu. A majority of sculptures are that of Lord Vishu and does talk about the temple being dedicated to Lord Vishnu. This may be one of the few temples in India that have an elaborate carving of Lord Indra with his consort on his Airavata, the elephant. The sculpture work is simple yet mesmerising.

In the temple space one would find carvings of the five headed snake with Prakrit inscription from 2nd century.

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Does this not remind you of Pyramids & Mummy movies.

In the courtyard of the temple one would also see a stone cot, with monolithic structures that talk about the craftsmanship of the Shonda rulers.

After spending close to an hour or more in the temple, we stepped out to relish ourselves with some of the sweetest Pineapples that one could ever have. Banavasi, today contributes significantly to the Pineapple production of Karnataka. There are farmlands that produce these sweet pineapples. One could also see factories to package and may be export them.

 

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The monolithic Stone Cot, well preserved within the temple space.

Before we left this beautiful little space well tucked in the western Ghats, we had our simple lunch at a Khanawali. We enjoyed a simple home made vegetarian lunch managed by women. The simplicity of the food and people have got entrenched in our hearts, minds and stomach too.

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The snake carvings with Shiva, Parvathi & Nandi on top of it. The craftsmanship is simply mystical!! 

 

It is said that perhaps, in those times apart from Varanasi, Banavasi was the only other city that had a culmination of many religious beliefs. One can only imagine the magnitude of this place which had laid its relevance more than some 2000 years ago.

 

 

 

Things to check:

  • Banavasi, today is small place mainly connected by road. The nearest station is at least 100 odd kms. 
  • The drive to the place is very pleasing and the trees are you constant companion.
  • It is quite a tranquil place. 
  • You can carry your camera bag / camera / cell phone.
  • The language is mostly Kannada and could hardly find people who could talk English. Hindi a few could speak. And the human language is the best way to connect.
  • Carry your own water bottles or food. Do not miss to try out the Khanawali. That is an experience in itself.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat” & say no to plastics. The place is relatively clean and has been maintained by local people.              

As we left the place, the sweetness of the pineapple and the past architecture lingered through the return journey of ours.

Indeed…. Incredible India!!

Check out my New releases @ Amazon and enjoy the short stories.

 

Endangered Vultures in a Cenotaph

Indian history revere this carcass eating majestic bird. This bird has connections to that of Indian history, Parsi community and by large an important part of the Bio-system. This is only bird that feeds on the dead carcass of Cows. Just imagine, they contribute towards 4% of natural scavenging. Sadly, it is said that, the Asian Vultures have dwindled to just a mere 100,000 from 40 million in 1980s. This is a whooping drop.

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My first interaction with these majestic birds was in Singapore and I never thought I will witness them close again. It was a delight to see these birds in action there, well fed and taken care off.

While the country may not be that concerned as to why is it so concerning, there is one small town in Orchha Madhya Pradesh that is working towards conserving these endangered species. Orchha, also know for its mythological and historical significance is also gaining relevance. This city has a strong significance to the Bundelkhand culture.IMG_20191003_072401

Apart from the beautiful temples and on the banks of the beautiful Betwa river, the Bundelkhand kings created Cenotaphs that talk about their splendor and command over beautiful architectures. The cenotaphs on the banks of the Betwa river has become the natural conservation places of conservation for these Vultures.

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The vulture houses

IMG_20191003_071055DSC_0293Families of vultures stay there, enabling proliferation of the four varieties of Vultures. It is a delight to see the way the government has taken steps.  There is a clear signage that talks about the care that is being taken. The cenotaphs actually are quite a sight and they are cozy places for vultures to stay and grow. One could see the beautiful little vulture birds trying to take wings too. It is quite mesmerizing.

Today, it seems that we have close to 60 odd Vultures there and they are growing. While I was busy shooting the cenotaphs, these vultures were basking in the early morning sun.

IMG_20191003_073332These cenotaphs have been built in around 16th & 17th Century in memory of the long lost kings.

These cenotaphs have an Indo Islamic architecture and is a clear indication of the Mughal influence on the Bundel kingdom and constructions.

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The neglected cenotaph of “Vir Sing Deo” is a good example of architectural influence.

When we reached Orchha it had just stopped raining and Betwa was flowing in full spate and the cenotaphs looked mesmerizing against the rising sun and puddles of water.

Things to check:

  • Orchha is a small city and is closer to Jhansi. One can take share auto or an auto to reach Orchha.
  • It is quite a tranquil place. 
  • You can carry your camera bag / camera / cell phone.
  • Vultures are endangered, so do not provoke or disturb them. They are quite peaceful creatures. Remember that they are hunters too.
  • Cenotaphs are great places to shoot, so explore it and avoid stamping on cow dung.
  • Carry your own water bottles or food.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat”.

It is a must visit place, apart from just visiting the cenotaphs, you could enjoy the endangered Vultures up close and live in the beauty of their majestic beings.

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Machkund – A slice of Rajasthan

Being spontaneous is a great thing and being open to listening is like a dash of lime on a Bhel Puri.

Well, while having to reach Gwalior we had to cross a small part of Rajasthan, Dholpur on NH44.  We did not trust our beloved GPS and stopped to check with locals and have a local Chai. The moment we did that, one added to another and someone said, there is a place which is not too far and is of historical and religious significance. Post the chai, we took the detour. Though not a part of the plan, we said “why not!?!”. May be worth half an hour spend.

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And the huge arch on our right welcomed us to get into Machkund. The approach road is good but one can feel lost and we had to ask a few locals to reach the place. As the vehicle rolled in, we were welcomed by the traditional Red stone, Rajasthani structure. We gingerly got out of the car and started to walk towards a small gate on the left hand side, which happened to open into the temple complex and believe me, “It is a world in itself”.IMG_20191002_103335

The beauty about Indian history is that there has to be some Mythology behind a structure. It is said that a demon by the name of Kaal Yamaan unknowingly woke Raja Machkund who was sleeping at this place. The Raja had a divine gift, a boon by the Lord that he could destroy any person. When the Raja was disturbed, he burnt, Kaal Yamaan at this place.IMG_20191002_105805

The architecture and grande is worth the time. The lake right in front is supposed to be sacred and was built by the suryavanshi kings. Well the overall structure came up later. As we stepped into the place, the other aspect that greets one is the serenity and calmness of the place.

One cannot state that this place is dedicated to a particular deity. It seems that most of the shrines came up between 915 BC to 775 BC. Off course the outer structures were built much later.

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At the entrance we had the Shiva shrine in the open, which has been placed on an open high raised platform with a covering only on top. HE is placed right infront of Krishna temple. The whole set up was placed inside a temple structure. It was like a temple within a temple.

We walked a little further to see the Jagannath Temple and many others smaller shrines. The Jagannath shrine had a small “Gowshala” (Cow shed) too.DSC_0948 (2)

This place is also a space where you find a lot of small samadhis (Cenotaphs) of the kings and royal members also. The cluster of these makes the place spiritual and mystical.

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While we were there, we felt the water of the pond to be extremely still. So still that one could see the reflection of the boats and trees crystal clear. It was a mesmerizing feeling.

It is said that there is a mela that happens there, when one finds a lot of crowd or else this is a very quite place and indeed it was. I am surprised that such a lovely place is hidden in the folds of the country and it is not published or spoken about.

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As we left the place, we were not only soaking ourselves in a bit of Rajasthan but also a question as to why these lovely places are tucked in some corners of the country.

Things to check:

  • Dholpur falls in a cusp zone as you cross UP and heading towards Gwalior. The roads leading to Muchkund is really great.
  • There are hardly any one who will bug you for anything. You could peacefully walk in and walk out.
  • You can carry your camera bag / camera / cell phone.
  • Soak in the beauty. There could be a lot to walk around. We saw boats in the pond, but hardly anyone to ferry at that hour. 
  • Carry your own water bottles or food.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat”.

Soak in a bit of history, mythology and beautiful Architecture. Basically, soak in the beauty of Rajasthan..

Indeed “Incredible India!!”

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Lost Yoginis of Mitawali

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Chaushati Yogini, the word itself takes me back to the time when I had visited this Sakthi pitha at Hirapur near  Bhubaneswar. Especially this being the Dasahara time, I remember how Mahamaya, the central deity of Chaushati Yogini is celebrated.

I had a similar impression when we started our planning some three months earlier. India has got some 12 odd Yogini pithas and Mitawali (near Morena) is one such revered place.

Thanks to Madhya Pradesh Government, the approach road to this place took me back to 1980’s roads of India. DSC_1052 (2)

Anyway, somehow we managed to reach the place by 4 pm. Our plan was to rush of to Orchha at the earliest as we now became worried of the roads. As we parked our vehicle, we were attracted towards a chorus singing.

DSC_1049 (2)We paused ourselves as we were enthralled by a group of village women who had sat down to sing a simple folklore and praise Mother Durga.

As they finished singing we could not hold ourselves back requesting them to sing again and they happily obliged.

After spending our time, we started to climb up a hillock. And this was not before, one of the ladies invited us to come to her home. When we politely said later, she said have some water from the tube well and head off. We had some really sweet, chill water from the tube well and made our way out. It was quite humbling to see the simplicity and warmth in our villages.

As we approached our climb, we realized the walk would be of  some 100 steps up. I kept running up with excitement and literally ran up gasping for breath. The familiar circular structure invite me.DSC_1068 (2)

There was a board there stating us to remove our footwear. As I took the final flight of ten steps, I looked around the inner shell of the temple. It had a different feel. The circular inner shell had sixty four small Chambers and there was the central mandapa.

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We started to walk around and for me it was a gloomy scene, there were no yogini’s inside. I found Shiva lingas been kept inside these chambers.IMG_20191002_152940

The central mandapa was even more disappointing. They had managed to keep three Shiva Lingas where the locals offer prayers.

I was feeling low seeing the plunder that has happened to this magnificent piece of history. This structure that has given India it’s parliament structure was now standing hollow.IMG_20191002_153036__01

With a heavy heart and a tinge of disappointment we headed back to our car, though thankful to Archaeological Society of India (ASI) that such lovely structures and piece of history is preserved the test of time.

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Things to check:

  • Do not attempt any other route, make the way from Gwalior. This route is safe and has some tar on the road. The other approach roads are really bad.
  • There is not much of signage that will guide you except when you are close to the place. So hold on to your GPS maps and human maps too.
  • The climb is steep and has close to 100 odd inclined steps. Shoes are a good option
  • There is no ASI fees / charges to enter the place and no one asks for money.
  • If you are travelling during summer time, carry your own caps and shades. 
  • Carry your own food & water bottles (BYOB). There are local village shops and I doubt if it could be of much help. 
  • People are very humble and helpful.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat”.

Ruins of Chambal … Bateshwar

IMG_20191002_134805Ever felt lost and found with awe… Bateshwar, near Morena, Madhya Pradesh is just the place that would make you feel that.

When Google fumbles with the path, and you trust technology too much, then be rest assured, you will have a journey of a life time. We went through villages that would take you back in time, roads that will test your driving skills and vehicles shock ups. We quit the maps and went back to the age old tradition of asking people about the directions. It was on their judgement call we trusted and made our way through the villages and battered roads.img_20191002_140047

Finally we reached the destination. Believe me it was a scary space. Apart from the board which looked neat, the rest of the places felt deserted. We gingerly moved in. My partner had plans to leave the place. When we reached the gate, we were welcomed by a neat looking office but manned by none.

IMG-20191009-WA0061We parked the car under a tree and made our way through the gate.  The team from ASI has really worked in making the place look beautiful. The trees are welcoming and all the tiredness went off into thin air.

The site of a peacock was bliss and it felt warm and welcomed as our eyes began to scan the place for signs of a different life and archaeological wonders from the glorious past of India.

DSC_0975 (2)We took a few more steps, the sight of the temple gopuras was fascinating. We forgot all the pain and the delusion of the road and soaked ourselves in the place.DSC_0978 (2)

As the expanse opened up, we were welcomed by a number of similar looking small temples. I was jumping like a little kid who had just got hold of a long desired ice cream. I ran from one flight of stairs to another exploring the series of temples at each level. I was in awe with the symmetry of the temples. Most of these temples would be from 5.5 ft to 6.5 ft. There are  a few that would be some 12 ft high too. These are Shiva temples built during the Gurjara Pratiharas time which would be 7th century CE.DSC_0987 (2)

There are stories that these temples were built by the students as a part of the Guru dakshina pratha post their learning at the school. How fascinating and a wonderful way to pay their tributes to the Guru.DSC_1004 (2)

Bateshwar comes in the Chambal valley and this part was well infested with dacoits who ruled the place. The time I am talking about is not too much in the past. It was in 2005, Bhopal region’s Superintending Archaeologist  from the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) K.K. Muhammed who restored close to 60 odd temples here.DSC_0990 (2)

As per the recent folklore, it seems he had a dream of Lord Shiva asking him to come to Bateshwar and restore the shrines. Initially he ignored it especially given the fact that the place was notorious but as the dream kept coming again, he ventured into the heart of the dacoit land and convinced them to start the restoration work.DSC_0988 (2)

Well things did not come easy. But he kept working on his dream and finally gave the world some of the most astonishing temples and the glory what we would have missed. There are a couple of temples where the Lord is being prayed.DSC_0984 (2)

DSC_0985 (2)We spent close to half an hour there exploring the world that was part of a rich tradition. Today there is work being done by ASI in restoring it further.

It seems a lot of these were earlier Vishnu temples which were later reused as Shiva temples. These temples have got simple standard carvings that are fascinating to see the striking similarities. The gopuras are very interesting. Some are very ornate while some are absolutely plain in structure.

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Bateshwar, one does not know much about them from the history books nor is Madhya Pradesh tourism doing much to make the roads accessible or propagating it. Feels sad that such treasures are not being spoken about.DSC_0983 (2)

As we left the place, I was filled with delight to have finally made it to this place and witnessed a part of history that speaks millions of our glorious past.

Things to check:

  • Do not attempt any other route, make the way from Gwalior. This route is safe and has some tar on the road. The other approach roads are really bad.
  • There is not much of signage that will guide you. So hold on to your GPS maps and human maps too.
  • There is a lot of walk in and around the place, so make sure you have your comfortable shoes on.
  • There is no ASI fees / charges to enter the place and no one asks for money.
  • If you are travelling during summer time, carry your own caps and shades. 
  • Carry your own food & water bottles (BYOB). You do not have shops to buy what you may like. Almost no habitation nearby.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat”.

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Chota Kila and a Lioness

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Rain kept pounding that day, when we thought we would like to make a quick visit to the fort which had been spoken about with pride in the Ghara Kingdom.  A kingdom that may not be well known in the Indian dynasty but has produced legends that are well imprinted in the local legends in and around Jabalpur.

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In an era where we are talking of women empowerment and women power, this small kingdom had a queen, Rani Durgavati who revolutionized the way she ruled the kingdom after her husband died at a young age while her son being too young to rule.

She took over the reigns and ruled for 14 years. She is known for bringing in a lot of prosperity to her state which got into the sight of the Mughals. In 1564, at the age of 39 she was martyred in the last battle.

For her, “The pride to live respectfully was more important that living a disgraceful life”.

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The steps that lead us to the fort

She lead her army to a battle and seems to have mounted an elephant for the battle. In a battle of unequal, when she realized that she had lost all her army, and there was no other go, she preferred to kill herself. Her martyrdom on 24 June 1564 is commemorated as “Balidan Diwas” even today. This shows us how a revered and powerful lioness she was.

In her territory at Jabalpur, Madan Mahal is one of the small forts that was built. It has been built at such a height and so small compared to the forts that one imagines, that it could have doubled up as a watching post.

This mahal is situated on a hill top and one has to take close to 100+ steps to reach the fort base. The steps give you a mesmerizing feel of the Jabalpur city as you keep moving us. As you reach at the base, one could be surprised by the remains. On the right had side, there is the horse stable and on the left is the small fort.

The FortThere seems to be many more places underground but as it had been raining heavy, these places were submerged in water. The distinctive thing is the huge smooth oval shaped rock that will make you look at the fort with awe. Horse Stable

We walked up a short flight of stairs, that tell you the signs of presence of bats. The stairs img_20190912_140419opens up onto a small landing base area and a few rooms at the end. Should have been used by the solders to keep an eye on the kingdom down below. The place is quite breezy.

There are many tunnels that had been built which opens up at various places that could have been used for safe movements. Today they have been closed down by the ASI and understandably why. It seems that people have found pots of gold while digging the grounds to construct their houses in the new Jabalpur city.

Spot the Squirrel
Had a little friend up the Fortress wall
The watch Tower
The watch Tower
The doorways
The doorways that tell us of the beautiful life it must have been. The horsemen and the soldiers who may have guarded it.

We walked around the space and enjoyed shooting ourselves with selfies with this “Chota Kila” (Small Fort) and as we left the fort, it reminded me of the glory that this place would have seen during the reign of a wonderful administrator Lioness.

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The slight drizzle that started as we made our way down made the place even more mesmerizing for us.

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A must place to be when you are at Jabalpur.

Things to check:

  • There is a lot of walk in and around the place, so make sure you have your comfortable shoes on.
  • There is no ASI fees to enter the place and no one asks money.
  • If you are travelling during summer time, carry your own caps and shades. It is quite a rocky place so heat may through you off guard.
  • The place is very peaceful and soak the beauty, especially during rainy season.
  • Carry your own food & water bottles. You do not have shops to buy what you may like.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat”

 

Bankapur Nagareshvara Shiva

Being lost even when GPS seems working I think is something that we have taken up for granted. And, finding newer things and pausing to find something beautiful is a new normal then.

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Well Bankapur fort was one such place. We had read about the Nagareshvara Temple inside the fort and wanted to check that out post our trip from Galaganath.

The fort is some 360 odd kilometers from Bengalore and 23 kms from Haveri. Haveri, does not have great places to stay. It was an “ok” place, where we could sleepover as a pit stop before we headed off further north of Karnataka. We started off after a sumptuous breakfast.

The fort is off the main road in the Bankapur area, which is well known for Peacock sanctuary and for Black Bucks (Well we could see none). Bankapur was a glorious place in the past. It was ruled by Rastrakutas, Chalukyas, Suenas, Hoyasala before being ruled by the Bahmani Sultans. This place was also ruled further by Bijapur’s Ali Adil Shah and then  by the Suvanur Nawabs who had to pledge the fort to the Maratha Holkars, who fell to Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan. The fort was finally seized by the Britishers. In the due course of time, the fort lost its glory and its structure too.

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Not knowing Kannada and following the GPS, we seemed to have gone around the barbed fencing of the fort and reached at a spot where we realized we were lost. That is where we paused and shot some lovely little birds.

We finally reversed and parked outside a wall and people said, you got to walk through this gate. As we started to walk, we were welcomed by a deserted feel. It had wild vegetation all around and the broken walls. From there on it was a deserted walk for close to one kilometer. The good part is that, there is a shade cover that the government has built. There are no signage to lead to the temple space though.

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As we walked to a small junction point we happened to meet a bunch of school kids who had come on a school excursion. What energy and fun. Reminded us of our school fun days.

After chatting up with them and asking for directions, we headed on our right side towards the temple place. The placed looked deserted yet had a charm of its own. May be still saying I have my mesmerizing effects still on.

This place was the fort area though deserted and not much of visitors except for the locals, there is a habitation. People come and farm inside too. The government has given the local people the lands to be used. The spaces unused are huge.

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Cultivation inside the fort

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As we neared the place, the first side was that of the roof and then the temple space opened up for us. The smallness was grandeur for us. The temple today would be some seven feet below the normal ground height as of today. As we took the flight of stairs, one could feel that ASI has been working on the space. It was very clean and gave a feel of the care that the government is taking for preserving these pristine pasts of ours.

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This ancient Western Chalukyan temple is also called as “Aravattarukmbhada Gudi” or “Temple with Sixty six columns. It was built in the later Chalukya or Kalyani Chalukya rulers. And yes, this is again another Shivan temple, similar to what Western Chalukya kings have been creating. This temple was created in the 12th century.

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We had to remove our footware and get into the temple space, even though we did not find any prayers being done to the linga. The young Bengali ASI person who was bought up in Bihar and had an Odiya girlfriend who wanted to go for a kannada movie that morning with a local friend that day ensured that we all remove our footware there.

As we discussed and started to ask him more questions about the place, we realized he hardly had any understanding of what this place was. He was eager to close the main sanctum and move on for the day.

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Exquisite carvings on the door of the sanctum. There is a lot lost with time and still this art work stands tall.

The sixty six pillars forms the part of the small mandapa, which must have been a place of congregation. Though we stepped  into the sanctum, we could one see a small shiva Linga and it seemed to have been shut because of ASI work. Our ASI man did not let us click any pics inside too.

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The intricate designs on one of the pillars

 

The first impression that we got were the beautifully chilled pillars. It would remind anyone of the Belur & Belvadi temples. The only difference is that, they were build for Vishu and these Chalukyan were for Shiva. And yes, Hoyasala architecture is heavily influenced by the Chalukyan creations. This temple is a great example for it.

When one enters the temple, one could feel the chillness in the space. The floor and the sandstone pillars chill the place. The sandstone structures also gives in to the fact the carvings and structures suggests that it could have been the beginning of stone carvings. Bankapur has a dense population of peacocks and it shows in the carvings too.

We spent a lot of time, walking and feeling the beautiful carvings on the walls. The door especially had some intrinsic workings and one see how the stones have hollowness as well as liveliness at the same time.

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The raised platforms around the inner part of the wall did have similar impressions as that of Galagnath temple, where people must have used this for playing board games. There is something about that place that could get peace and tranquility.

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Board Games

The subsequent time that flew post the creation, the fort’s occupiers in the later years broke a lot of artifacts, statues and today what we see could just be a small part of that beautiful history.

Some of the monuments have been placed at different places of the palace, just as a reminder as to what this place would have been.

As we walked back to our car, we could only talk as to what the stars above us would have seen when the plans for this magnificent temple was laid and then its destruction. Thanks to ASI for having preserved such jewels for this and the subsequent generations to cherish and feel awe about.

Things to check:

  • Haveri is a small place, cannot expect great hotels. And if you are looking at staying before heading to Bankapur, this is the best place only.
  • Food is local but nice and clean. If you are experimenter then a great way to taste local food.
  • Own transport is the best to discover new places.
  • The Bankapur fort is dilapidated and the entrance would like some government place. So check with locals if you feel lost. People GPS is best.
  • There is no ASI fees to enter the place and no one asks money in the temple.
  • There is a lot of walking to be done from the gate to the temple space.
  • If you are travelling during summer time, carry your own caps and shades.
  • The place is very peaceful and soak the beauty.
  • Carry your own food & water bottles. You do not have shops to buy what you may like.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat”

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Indeed, Incredible India!! and a glorious history of India!!!… Only wanting us to come back again and again.

Sparsha Linga

DSC_8476 (2)India is a country full of surprises and are hidden in places that finding them itself is mesmerizing. Though we had done good amount of googling to find more about this lovely place, Galagnath hidden in a small village on the banks of Tungabhadra, one can get lost, practically.

After having done a quick stop at Somesvara, we headed towards our destination. The fascination with this place was more with regard to structure in which this was created by the western Chalukya dynasty during the period of Vikramaditya.DSC_8487 (2)

Galaganath village was earlier called as Palluni Village and was later named as Galaganath because of Galageswara. When we read in history that habitations happen on river banks and cultures flourish, this place can stand out to be one great example. The beautiful temple is tucked on the banks of Tungabhardra, It is also called the place where five rivers meet. They are Tunga, Bhadra & Kumudvathi merge with Varada & Dharma.

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The temple is on a real high platform and it gives a great view of the river and village.

We after being lost, managed to slowly move towards the temple after multiple attempts to converse and understand the language. Finally the sign language & humanness took the better of us and we reached this beautiful temple.

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We paused and wondered before we could step further

As one steps into the temple, what catches our eyes is the structure. Though there is a Chalukya influence, but the base makes you feel that this is that of a pyramid base. But as the structure rises it has got beautiful designs and intricate workings. The structure is that of a mandala and the temple opens up to the east towards the river.

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The Unique structure of Galageswara
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Small yet Majestic temple 

As we walked around, we were mesmerized by this small base and the stone carvings. What fascinated me the most was the Shiva linga. It is a huge linga compared to the ones that I have seen so far in Dakshina Karnataka, where the concept of building is huge linga are evident. More, we got to hear from the locals there who spoke some good Hindi and English.

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The eastern entrance of the temple. A Nandi sits there majestically infront of the Shiva Linga. Notice the work on the walls. Simple yet elegant.

It is said that this Linga has a “Sparsha Linga” underneath it. Legends say that, people used to put an Iron rod near the Linga and pray, which used to get converted to gold. When the king got to know about the misuse of it, he got the Linga covered with “Galaga” or a protective layer. Since then the temple has been called as “Galageswara” and the village name changed to Galaganath.

It is not just Shiva, but the walls are also adorned by Vishu avatars, and Lord Surya (The sun God).

The temple has a small mandapa and it seems the temple was used for Art and Dance proliferation. There is no denial that temple were built as culture & Communication hubs and religion was used a binder. On the raised platforms within the mandapa are etching of board games that would have been played during that time.

There are stone inscriptions stating that the temple was built around 1080 AD.

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The inscriptions on the stone talking about the temple and its creation

We spent time talking to the ASI caretaker, the School headmaster and a few locals who were very enthusiastic to share their knowledge and understanding. One could see the pride they carry for the place. They loved to pose and we loved to shoot them.

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The temple shares its boundary walls with the village and the co-existence is so nicely woven in.

It is said that the Kanndiga Literary novelist “Shri Venkatesh Trivikrambhat Kulkarni” was born in Havanur and he had written most of his novels sitting in the mandapa of Galageswara. He is also called as “Father of Kannada Novels”, who had self published and sold his 29 books on the streets to popularize the language too.

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Depiction of Fisherman, Praying woman (Stating normal life) and then the religious belief with Shiva Linga and Nandi

After spending close to an hour we headed for our destination for the day, Haveri and not before we had an impromptu stop on the open field to pick up Byadgi Chilly.

A few pointers:

  • This is a small village and GPS may not locate the temple accurately. Get onto local people network to find more.
  • There is no ASI fees to enter the place and no one asks money in the temple.
  • The place is very peaceful so you could spend some “Me time” and soak the beauty.
  • Carry your own food & water bottles. You do not have shops to buy what you may like.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat”

That one hour is well etched in our minds and we just cannot remove the fascination and creative excellence that India had then.

Hats off to Incredible India!!

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