Machkund – A slice of Rajasthan

Being spontaneous is a great thing and being open to listening is like a dash of lime on a Bhel Puri.

Well, while having to reach Gwalior we had to cross a small part of Rajasthan, Dholpur on NH44.  We did not trust our beloved GPS and stopped to check with locals and have a local Chai. The moment we did that, one added to another and someone said, there is a place which is not too far and is of historical and religious significance. Post the chai, we took the detour. Though not a part of the plan, we said “why not!?!”. May be worth half an hour spend.

img_20191002_110206.jpg

And the huge arch on our right welcomed us to get into Machkund. The approach road is good but one can feel lost and we had to ask a few locals to reach the place. As the vehicle rolled in, we were welcomed by the traditional Red stone, Rajasthani structure. We gingerly got out of the car and started to walk towards a small gate on the left hand side, which happened to open into the temple complex and believe me, “It is a world in itself”.IMG_20191002_103335

The beauty about Indian history is that there has to be some Mythology behind a structure. It is said that a demon by the name of Kaal Yamaan unknowingly woke Raja Machkund who was sleeping at this place. The Raja had a divine gift, a boon by the Lord that he could destroy any person. When the Raja was disturbed, he burnt, Kaal Yamaan at this place.IMG_20191002_105805

The architecture and grande is worth the time. The lake right in front is supposed to be sacred and was built by the suryavanshi kings. Well the overall structure came up later. As we stepped into the place, the other aspect that greets one is the serenity and calmness of the place.

One cannot state that this place is dedicated to a particular deity. It seems that most of the shrines came up between 915 BC to 775 BC. Off course the outer structures were built much later.

IMG_20191002_105239

At the entrance we had the Shiva shrine in the open, which has been placed on an open high raised platform with a covering only on top. HE is placed right infront of Krishna temple. The whole set up was placed inside a temple structure. It was like a temple within a temple.

We walked a little further to see the Jagannath Temple and many others smaller shrines. The Jagannath shrine had a small “Gowshala” (Cow shed) too.DSC_0948 (2)

This place is also a space where you find a lot of small samadhis (Cenotaphs) of the kings and royal members also. The cluster of these makes the place spiritual and mystical.

IMG_20191002_104453

While we were there, we felt the water of the pond to be extremely still. So still that one could see the reflection of the boats and trees crystal clear. It was a mesmerizing feeling.

It is said that there is a mela that happens there, when one finds a lot of crowd or else this is a very quite place and indeed it was. I am surprised that such a lovely place is hidden in the folds of the country and it is not published or spoken about.

PANO_20191002_104547

As we left the place, we were not only soaking ourselves in a bit of Rajasthan but also a question as to why these lovely places are tucked in some corners of the country.

Things to check:

  • Dholpur falls in a cusp zone as you cross UP and heading towards Gwalior. The roads leading to Muchkund is really great.
  • There are hardly any one who will bug you for anything. You could peacefully walk in and walk out.
  • You can carry your camera bag / camera / cell phone.
  • Soak in the beauty. There could be a lot to walk around. We saw boats in the pond, but hardly anyone to ferry at that hour. 
  • Carry your own water bottles or food.
  • Finally, ensure “Swatch Bharat”.

Soak in a bit of history, mythology and beautiful Architecture. Basically, soak in the beauty of Rajasthan..

Indeed “Incredible India!!”

DSC_0955 (2)

Terracotta Adda – Bishnupur

IMG_20180429_133916

The first time that I heard of Bishnupur, it did not rekindle any feelings. Yeah, like any other local town in India, this could yet another city. Now, the mind does play tricks and I happened to start reading about this town and what got me excited was that this small The wingstown some 130 odd kilometers from Kolkata has been on the tentative list of UNESCO Heritage sites. That was more than enough for me to make up my plans to travel to this city.

And thus the wings took me off to the “City of JOY” … Kolkata and from there we headed off to the sleepy town of Bishnupur. We had a great cab driver who was quite a chatter box and ensured that we had a lovely time travelling to the Town of RED. Tera HorseThis town today falls in the Birbhum district and was ruled by local kings under the rule of the Gupta Dynasty. Somewhere in the 17th & 18th century, this quiet town was ruled by the Malla Rulers who were followers of Lord Vishnu and had built these elegant structures. There has been a time in history, Bishnupur was the cultural capital of Bengal.

Today stands still to get recognition that it had in the past. The only thing that has got a world recognition is the beautiful Terracotta horse from Bishnupur that stands proudly with the West Bengal Tourism. It has become a symbol of pride from the past.

While heading to this historic place, we enjoyed the “Aaloo Chap” (Potato balls) a specialty from Bengal. It was way different from what we have had so far. One thing to remember is that, if you are heading towards the hinterlands in east, food is something you would have to adjust or carry your own stuff. UNADJUSTEDRAW_thumb_ed1
UNADJUSTEDRAW_thumb_ecfYou may not find great restaurants on the way but guaranteed to find some amazing local delicacies in shacks. Offcourse, water is a treasure and do pick your bottles as you head towards your beautiful destination. Not that you may not find them, but just be sure that you have them when you need them.

We rolled down our car and one would tend to have some guides who would reach out and ask. The best part is that these guys are not too pushy here and very reasonable. Our guide asked for Rs 200/- to take us around. You would need one of these guys just to get a understanding of some of the nuances that web may not throw out.

After picking up the tickets, I turned to just be awestruck by the grande of “Rashmancha”.. the base itself is some seven feet high and on top of that is the edifice which to me reminded of the Pyramids.  More than anything, it was the usage of Terracotta and red bricks to build this massive structure. UNADJUSTEDRAW_thumb_f7cOn these red bricks, the terracotta slabs depict the life from Ramayana & unadjustedraw_thumb_f82-e1536476895193.jpgMahabharata. Just imagine, to cover such a huge structure how many just blocks would have first been conceptualized and then molded in heat to get the story done in a beautiful sequence.

The “Rashmancha” was made to celebrate the festivity with Lord Krishna. The villages from nearby and far would bring their Lord Krishna & Radha decorated in their finery best. There were places that were demarcated within the “Rashmancha” where the respective deities were kept. It must have been a scene filled with fun and frolic. Bazars must have been filled with delicacies and handmade art work for people to buy and celebrate the festivities.

After this we went to the “Radha Balabha temple,” which is exquisite art work. The temple is small but a lot compactly built. The square structure is proportionately built with door ways exactly the same way. But, each wall has a different inscription and story to tell. The terracotta work will leave you mesmerized and you would tend to spend more time understanding each of these panels.

UNADJUSTEDRAW_thumb_fa0

Post this we went ahead to see another beauty called “Jor Bangla”.. Which is also called Twin palaces. “Jor” means joint.. There are two identical structures that look to have been joint in the middle. Except the fact that one has got a door while the other does not. The rest of the structure is the same.

UNADJUSTEDRAW_thumb_faeThe sad part is that people are not allowed to get inside the place. Am sure the exquisite work would have to be preserved.

As we walked around we found that, apart from the red bricks there were laterite rocks that have used to build these palaces. Both red soil and laterites are common to this place. A beautiful usage of what is available in the vicinity.

Then there is the Madan Mohan temple and many others. All these temples that have been created. Many of these structures are fairly identical to one another and grandeur. This is one temple where the lord Krishna resides and the idol is worshiped everyday. We happened to reach there a little late.UNADJUSTEDRAW_thumb_fcc

Just a furlong down, is the “Large gateway”. It is also made up off Laterite rocks and Bricks. As I walked into the gateway that is still used for smaller vehicles to pass through, one could see the posts that were created for the sentries and Royal army to be stationed. The large dome did make it more spacious.

Each of these places do have something or the other happening right outside. We had a Baul singer, mesmerizing the place. Then you have the tea stall and a vendor selling the local handicraft.

After  going through the regular tourist spot, we were fascinated by some of the dilapidated structures. One of them was this “Radha Krishna” temple. There were still in sequence next to the village pond. Even though it is a locked and broken temple, people have had kept the space in front of that cleaned for their evening get-together.

A further down was an old house of one of the singers from the “Bishnupur Gharana”. This house is now run down and is beyond use. Only after seeing this place, did we realize that Bisphupur, does contribute to the Indian Classical Music in a big way. Felt sad too that such places and art has not been publicized much.IMG_20180429_124950

What really surprises me the heights and the similarity in layout. One would tend to find a similar layout within each structures. Each of these temples have a Tulsi area, a kitchen area right behind the temple structures.

UNADJUSTEDRAW_thumb_1011

The top of all these temples have a very beautiful arch which am sure serves both the ways for keeping the place cool during the hot summer days and also, let’s the water recede faster during the rainy season.

There seem to be an alignment to the Vastu requirements of building a place. The vastness of the temples does talk about the fact that these places were not only built from a worship point of view but also a place where people could get together and celebrate various functions. There is a very forward thinking by the kings who ruled this places.  Importance has been given not only to the architecture but also the society that thrived around them.

UNADJUSTEDRAW_thumb_fd6

Exploring the kitchen area, my imagination on food had no bounds 😉

We had spent almost three hours in this beautiful historical place and still felt we have not seen enough. Our driver then took us to a place slightly away from the main area. This place was further decorated with many a temples. These temples have been built by the local Zamindars and these are no less captivating.

After another hour of exploring the beautiful red structures and soaking in the past, we went ahead to see one last chapter in the annals of history. That is the “Dalmadal Canon”. This canon was the largest manufactured by the Malla Kings. The canon has been manufactured by layers of alloys stripped together and is quite intact. It has not rusted at all.

IMG_20180429_141955We ended our trip at the “Chindamastika temple”, which was really a peaceful space in front of a rather “Ugra roopa” (Violent image) of Goddess Kali.

By around  2.30 pm we were hungry and our driver took us to the “Bishnupur Tourist Lodge” for a simple Fish meal. Well even if you are a vegetarian, the food is really simple and nice. It was really a nice place to end the trip and before we headed back to Shantiniketan for the next part of our journey to soak in the cultural hub of West Bengal. It was quite a fulfilling journey.

A few things definitely would suggest who would like to go and soak oneself in this beauty:

  • Carry water bottle as much as you can
  • Be ready to walk, as there is much more to explore, a CAP is a must as these are open spaces.
  • Do carry some food with you if you can.
  • Try being there during the non summer season.
  • Take a guide, he will help you explore the place from a different perspective.
  • The place is fairly clean and the Archaeological department has done some great restoration. Help them in the cause by keeping it clean.
  • Soak in the local flavours, you will not regret it.
  • Enjoy the place, it has more to offer.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.